posted Jun 26, 2011 7:16 PM by will clark
On my standard bathroom scale (+/- 0.5lb), I took the average of 3 weights for each the readings below: S2k headlight with ballast: 6.6lbs S2k headlight with everything removed except high beams and metal mounting structure: 3.8lbs Savings: 2.8lbs per side = 5.6lbs.
If you don't count the 3 hours I spent doing this, it was better than a free improvement. I should be able to make money selling the ballasts and bulbs. |
posted Jun 19, 2011 9:25 AM by will clark
Tirerack delivered some new wheels and tires last week. 17x8 +45 RPF1s with Hankook Z214/C51 245/40-17 tires. STU spec all the way. I have metal hub centering rings for the rear but not the front. May have to remedy that. |
posted Jun 19, 2011 9:01 AM by will clark
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updated Jun 19, 2011 9:15 AM
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2011/06/18 Fuel Safe recommends checking the fuel filter element for foam bits after running a new fuel cell. At first I planned to remove the fuel filter canister from the car and then change the filter but further examination proved that would be a major PITA. Fortunately SoS mounted the filter in a location where I could access it from under the car. Next blocker was how to unscrew the fuel line coming from the fuel cell without twisting the line too much. Tony C. told me to unscrew the blue part from the filter. I did that while holding the red part still and got the line off. Of course fuel started dripping all over but that's what drain pans are for.
The old filter was only moderately dirty and I didn't see any foam. Maybe there's an in-tank filter that's preventing it from getting to this one? Regardless, I replaced the old filter with a new one and then placed the old (and now clean) filter in the trailer as a spare. Part number for filter element in pic below: PE 7500-6IL - http://www.product-engr.com/fuel_filters.htmWhile I was underneath the car I also snipped off the old fuel tank wiring harness since it's connected to nothing. There were 7 wires and 3 connectors in that bundle. Saving weight - a few ounces at a time!
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posted Jun 9, 2011 7:13 AM by will clark
Diff fluid change to whatever 80w90 Brake fluid flushed to Motul 600 |
posted May 16, 2011 10:06 AM by will clark
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updated Jun 19, 2011 9:24 AM
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TCDesign performed some major surgery on the car a couple weeks ago. There were 3 parts: 1. Remove the old 17gal bottom flange fuel cell. 2. Install the new 12gal top flange cell in the trunk area 3. Create additional bracing in the back of the rollcage
Here's how the trunk area used to look: Here's how it looks now with the fuel cell in place: Here's a pic of the bracing added to the rollcage (I've since painted it). Beneath the ribbed aluminum cover is the fire system (don't have a pic of that yet). It's 4130 steel (like the rest of the cage). |
posted Apr 24, 2011 7:31 AM by will clark
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updated Apr 24, 2011 9:11 AM
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Someday they'll need to be replaced and switching to stickier rubber will make that happen sooner. Here are a few thoughts and links on the subject:
- Rob Robinette has an excellent how-to article on his site: http://robrobinette.com/S2000Bearing.htm- Coating them might help: http://www.wpctreatment.com/ or http://www.microblueracing.com/ - Advance Auto Parts has some for $55 with a $15% discount - are they any good? - Timken vs. Beck/Arnley vs. OEM bearings? - Research: OEM bearings are NSK, $55.51 from HPD or ~49 from other internet sites. Other good wheel bearing mnftrs=SFK, FAG (german), Koyo, and Timken. Apparently Timken sources parts from various locations and quality may vary. - Cheap source for Timken: http://www.speedycarparts.com/sku/Honda_S2000_Timken_Wheel-Bearing_2000_2009_TM510050.html - Amazon has Timken, good source for NSK (OEM): http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/wheel_bearing/honda/s2000.html
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posted Apr 23, 2011 7:54 AM by will clark
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updated Apr 23, 2011 8:54 AM
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 - Replaced Whiteline 30mm solid bar with Eibach 32mm hollow bar
- Whiteline bar: 19lbs
- Eibach bar: 11lbs
- In the pic above (click to make it bigger), note the superior features of the Eibach bar:
- Welded on discs prevent the bar from sliding (I added the metal stops on the Whiteline bar)
- Uses the factory mounts (with new bushings)
- The new bushings are asymmetric and include a part that butts up against the welded on disc - very thoughtful design
- Finally, everything bolted up as expected. In contrast, I had to buy a special drill bit to bore out the endlink holes on the Whiteline bar.
- Re-configured the catch can setup to vent to atmosphere instead of plugging back into the intake manifold.
- Improving the EPS power assist
- Turns out that the EPS expects a lower-pulse rate than the VSS provides.
- SOS connected the VSS directly to the EPS input and called it a day.
- To return to stock-like effort I ordered a 1/40 pulse divider from Race Technology per the advice of "stratocaster" on s2ki (thread: http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/828592-power-steering-eps-and-aftermarket-ems-problems/).
- On AP1 cars, gauge connector C has the relevant wires. Blu/wht on C3 is the input from the VSS and wht/blk on C1 is the output to the VSS.
- Blu on C5 flows from the gauge cluster to the ECM and the VSS - what does it do? Service manual shows it's a tach signal and SOS cut it from the connector - presumably they're tying the ECM directly to the VSS.
- They are very difficult to access with the dash on. This will probably have to wait until winter when I remove the dash and slim down the wire harness.
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posted Apr 23, 2011 7:34 AM by will clark
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updated Apr 23, 2011 8:24 AM
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- changed Transmission fluid
- bled brakes
- replaced remote fill fueling plate with a standard one covered by a plate secured with DZUS fasteners
- replaced dropped rear spring rate from 950->800 lbs/in
- added MY04 rear sway bar (26.4mm)
- swapped MY02 front sway bar for Whiteline 30mm solid bar
- reinforced front upper A-arm brackets by seam welding (TCDesign)
- installed Blacktrax/Wicked Tuning pillowball tie-rod ends;
- replaced stock jam nuts with thinner ones (M14x1.5) in order to have enough thread to center the steering wheel
- replaced rear pads with new DTC60 pads (were they DTC60s before?)
- trackdays on them=8 (counting first SCCA weekend as 1 day as total tracktime was ~2 hrs)
- sanded/rust-treated/painted the rear bumper and mount, area under the fuse box, and various other bits
- removed air-pump current sensor
- removed hood lining and window sprayer
- removed auto trunk release
Todo- make an extra key copy and jam it in the trunk lock with some epoxy
- buy a car cover
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posted May 21, 2010 7:37 AM by will clark
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updated May 22, 2010 12:56 PM
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On Saturday the 15th I installed the Toda header. Below you can see the diff btw it and the Comptech it replaced.
I dropped the Comptech out the bottom and tried to put the Toda in that way but it's shaped differently and wouldn't fit. You can see here the tolerance to the motor mount is very tight: And here's it is installed in the engine bay:
On Monday 2010/05/17 I hauled up to Sacramento to get my TPD trailer waxed at TPD's facilities. They also removed the giant and irrelevant "hondachallenge.com" stickers. After that I took the car over to Driving Ambition (click the link below for some pics of a killer NSX racecar they service) for a re-tune since I installed a new jethot-coated Toda header last weekend. The old header was a 4-into-1 design while the new header is a 4-2-1 design. As expected, we were able to lower the VTEC point and greatly improve the midrange: >15wtq in 4-5.5k range and more peak power too. That's not all due to the header change - the previous tune was a bit too rich. Overall the powerband felt great and the fuel economy improved too. Shad also removed extraneous offset the AEM was applying to the AFR sensor input. So now the Zeitronix and AEM are showing the same values. Bonus. |
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